There are several different soap coloring options that are available to soap makers and crafters. The first types of dyes that you can use to color your soap are natural soap colorants. These soap colorants use natural ingredients to tint your soap. For example Turmeric can be used to give your soap a golden glow, Moroccan Red Clay can be used to give your soap a brick red color, and alfalfa can be used to give your soap a green color.

Coloring options also include micas. Micas can be classified as both a natural colorant as well as a manufactured colorant. This is because the basic mica is mined form natural sources, however, it is then coated with laboratory created coloring agents on one side to create a shimmering effect. Micas are best suited for coloring clear soaps.

In addition to these two soap coloring options you can also use FD&C colorants. These colorants are made in a laboratory and they do not come from natural sources. Because these colorants can be mass produced they are generally inexpensive and widely available.

When selecting a soap pigment you will want to take into consideration several factors. First you will want to choose a soap coloring option that is right for the type of soap you plan on making. Secondly you want to a coloring agent that is right for the product image that you are creating. And finally you want to select a coloring agent that will produce the type of color and the shade that you are interesting in.

These days we seldom use starch for pillow slips, tablecloths or shirts any longer. However, we still use it for stiffening crochet work such as doilies and Christmas decorations. There are several ways to stiffen our handiworks. Here we explain how to use the spray starch and sugar stiffening methods.

Spray starch method

This technique uses aerosol spray starch, which you can find in practically any supermarket.

You do not need an iron when using this method, which not only saves energy but also offers another advantage. The threads and various features of your crochet work are not crushed by the iron and therefore the beauty and originality of your work are preserved. There is a small disadvantage in using this method - it is rather slow drying.

Wash and towel dry your work. Determine the measurements of your crochet piece. Place your work onto a prepared surface that is firm but not so hard that it cannot take pins. The best surfaces to use are: a board of fairly soft wood, a cardboard box or a piece of Styrofoam. Attach you crochet work to the surface with rust proof pins, starting by placing a pin in the centre. Then work from the centre outwards to the edge. Work section by section, stretch - and pull if necessary - to ensure that the motifs of the crochet pattern line up.

Now all you have to do is spray the crochet with aerosol starch and leave it to dry in an airy spot in summer or in a well-heated room in winter.

For a stiffer effect, you can repeat the process as many times as necessary to obtain the desired stiffness - leaving the crochet to dry completely after each application.

To test how firm the crochet is, pull out a few pins on one side, so that you can replace them easily if you have to.

Sugar stiffening

This traditional method gives a nice, stiff and sparkly effect.

To make the sugar stiffener mix two parts of sugar and one part of water in a saucepan. Heat the mixture slightly to help the sugar dissolve, but take care that you do not burn it. Let the solution cool, and then dip the crochet into it, making sure that your crochet work is thoroughly soaked. Then gently squeeze out the excess liquid - do not ring or twist the crochet. Lay the crochet out in shape and leave it to dry. At first, while the work is very wet, it is difficult to shape it exactly, but you can correct this as it dries a little. Repeat the process as often as necessary to obtain the degree of firmness desired. The crochet will harden more quickly if it is dried over hot air - such as with a hair dryer - rather than just left to dry by evaporation.